Thursday, July 9, 2009

A close call.....

Perhaps you remember at our meetings prior to coming to Spain that I frequently mentioned pickpockets and the need to care for your belongings. Yesterday the boys (and I, once again!) got a good lesson in just how slick theives can be.

Our day got a little convoluted...we were going to visit the Parque de Oeste and the Templo de Debod - a gift of a 2000 year old temple from the Egyptian govt to Spain. It has been reconstructed in the part and is a fascinating structure. But we got our time a little wrong and arrived too early. So we had some time to kill. We took a few photos, enjoyed one of the finest views of the Royal Palace and the Cathedral, and then settled under the trees to share a little "siesta time". I walked around a little, and when I returned to join the 19 other members of the group esconced under the trees, they were all dozing, sharing some iPod music, taking or looking at photos, chatting, etc. I listened to a few conversations for a couple of minutes, then took my iPod out of my bag and put on a little soft music. The kids were all around me and I put my head down for a minute.....
I guess the kids all moved - and while I dozed totally unsuspecting, a man sat down very close to me ( I had no idea) and looked as if he were a tourist snapping photos. When he got up, he took my camera bag with him, I sort of heard the movement, but I thought it was the kids. Marek saved the day. He saw him take my bag and yelled and the young man who accompanied us from International House yelled at the guy who immediately tossed my bag back at me. I had jumped up, but was a little disoriented and barely realized what happened until it was all over. The rest of the students were totally unaware! We were a group of 20, there were police on foot patrolling, a police car making rounds of the park and two mounted officers...and still in broad daylight, this brazen individual had the verguenza to attempt to take my bag. I´m just glad it was me and not one of the kids. In the end nothing happened but that the guys got yet another lesson in "you can´t be too careful". Last time I take a siesta in the park...

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Catedrales, desfiles y otras cosas.....


Saturday was a long day. We began at 9 am meeting a coach to take us to Toledo, the medieval capital of Spain (Before Felipe II decided to move it to the small town of Madrid. It is located about an hour south of Madrid and is known for being hot! Fortunately, those medieval builders knew what they were doing and built narrow streets with high walls to keep out the sun. It helps to keep the houses cooler - not much help for us who were walking around, but an interesting topic of conversation, nonetheless.
The Cathedral in Toledo is the second largest Gothic cathedral in Spain and in my opinion, the most beautiful. It houses the vestments of Cardinal Cisneros about whom we learned last week in Alcalá de Henares and the most amazing transparente - constructed behind the main altar in the 18th century. It is an alabaster rococo sculpture of the Virgin and Child with the Last Supper above it. In order to illuminate it, a large window was carved in the gothic ceiling surrounded by frescoes in the italian style and more alabaster cherubs. It is phenomenally beautiful.

One of the most important aspects of Spanish history, and one about which the Spanish are most proud, is the fact that for hundreds of years, the three cultures, moorish, christian and jewish, cohabitated this peninsula in relative peace. Their coexistence made for a rich culture. Toledo is a perfect example of this heritage. We visited the Alcazar, the sinagoge, the Church of Santo Tomé, which houses the masterpiece of El Greco, El Intierro del Conde de Orgaz and finally went up to the tower of the Iglesia de San Ildefonso - the Jesuit church. From there one can get some of the most beautiful vistas of Toledo and its surroundings, the bell tower and rooftop of the Cathedral and a wonderful view of Castilla/La Mancha, the province in which Toledo (and Madrid) is located. Our final stop in Toledo was the ever-favourite, sword factory, where various modes of medieval weaponry were purchased by the boys. Unfortunately Facebook has been the depository of most of the photos... and since I don´t have access to their facebook pages, I can´t get the pics. I´m working on getting my camera in working order so that I can take my own photos and no longer have to depend on them....


Every summer in Spain one of the largest festivals of European Gay Pride takes place in Madrid. The parade was on Saturday night with over a million people (and 15 Prep students)in attendance. From all accounts, they enjoyed the parade and the spectacle, street music, food, parade, all manner of stuff! Not being a fan of huge crowds, I stayed at home and watched it on tv. I didn´t see any of my kids on tv so I considered this a good thing!

On Sunday morning we toured the 16th century house of playwright Lope de Vega. It is the only remaining house of this epoch in Madrid. It is located in the Barrio de las letras, which is also home to the Convent of the Trinitarians, where Cervantes is buried and also the church where Lope de Vega is buried. I then gave the boys a free afternoon - a rarity - some went to the rastro, some to the park, some to the pool and some to the bullfights. Since it was our last Sunday in Madrid, I wanted them to be able to do and see what they wanted before we head south on Saturday next. I took a nostalgic (6 hour) walk through the neighborhood where I lived as a student and then out to the University where I studied 100 years ago. It was a beautiful day, sunny in the 80´s with a nice breeze. I hear it is STILL raining in CT.

Monday began our last week of classes. Some of the students who have been with us, especially Andreas from Farmington, CT and Shane from Maine are now gone. But there are new students every Monday and while some friends depart, others arrive...it is all good. Our afternoon activity was to visit the Reina Sofia museum. It houses the Spanish art from the 19th century on... so we got to see Picasso, Miró, Dalí to name a few. The highlight of course, is Picasso´s masterpiece Guernica, a testament to the brutality of the Spanish Civil War of 1936-39.


Tuesday was a quiet day, we took a lovely afternoon walk through the Botanical gardens...a nice shady afternoon on a hot afternoon. The boys are getting tired. I have kept them so busy and they have seen and done so much! They are ready for their little "cultural vacation" to the south of Spain. They think they are going to get to rest - but I, as usual, have other plans! Our days will be full and very eventful, but I can assure you that they will have memories to last a lifetime! I´ve encouraged them to do as much as possible in the few days they have left in Madrid, sleeping just isn´t an option!

Friday, July 3, 2009

Trains, Art and Movies



The Palacio Real de Madrid is a majestic, white, 2000 room palace modeled on the Palace of Versailles and overlooking the Casa de Campo and the River Manzanares. Originally built by Felipe II when he moved the capital of Spain from the midieval city of Toledo to Madrid in the 16th century, it is currently not the residence of the Spain´s royal family. They live is a small palace outside the city called "El palacio de la zarzuela". The Palacio Real is used for events of State, such as formal dinners, receptions, document signings - official business. Parts of it are open to the public: the main staircase, many of the private quarters of the king and queen, reception rooms, the dining and ball room and the armory. It contains an extensive collection of art, armor of Felipe II, Carlos III, and Carlos V and there was a special exhibit of Carlos IV. Our visit included about 25 rooms including one of the most extensive and amazing exhibits of violins and violincellos created by the master Stradavarius. There were at least 6 original magnificent instruments from the 18th century.
I began taking a class last week - an advanced level in preparation to take a language proficiency examination for certification in advanced Spanish. So after the tour of the royal palace, the students dispersed to their respective homes for dinner. On Wednesday, we left school a little early in order to go to the Museo de Ferrocarriles - the Train Museum. What a fascinating place! Our guide was a retired train conductor who leads tours as a volunteer. He explained how steam engines worked from the time of wooden fire driven locomotives up to the present electric, high speed trains. We got to sit in some 1950´s rain cars, view the sleeping compartments and see the various classes of cars available to the public. The highlight was a room filled with model trains which the attendant worked from a remote control. Every kid´s dream. The boys thoroughly enjoyed their visit.
There is a special exhibit at the Prado Museum featuring the art of one of the most important Spanish artists of the 20th century, Joaquín Sorolla. I arranged a special time to go and some (about 8) of the students elected to attend with me. On Thursday we are going to see his house, which is a museum in its own right, but this particular exhibición temporal is very important as it contains much of his work that is not usually exhibited in Spain. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ESPq8JsPU4
Sorolla was commissioned by Archer Huntington (of Fairfield Co. fame - Huntington Park in Redding)to paint 14 large canvasses for the HispanoAmerican Society in New York. Much of that work is being exhibited in this show. Sorolla is noted for his impressionist style, use of bright colours and beach scenes.

On Thursday the entire group went to see Sorolla´s house which is also a museum and today, they have a movie, El Laberinto de Fauna - Pan´s Labyrinth. Tomorrow begins our last weekend in Madrid: we head for Toledo. Hopefully there will be lots of photos.